Roederer's 2011 Blanc de Blancs is showing brilliantly and no doubt reflects Lecaillon's decision to be extremely selective, taking fruit only from four particularly successful plots in Avize. Offering up aromas of crisp yellow apple, blanched almonds, white flowers and nougat, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, with a ripe but racy core of fruit that's complemented by a delicate, low-pressure mousse, concluding with an elegantly precise finish. This may not make especially old bones in the cellar, but this elegant, charming Blanc de Blancs is drinking beautifully today.